Is AlUla Cursed? The Real Story Behind Saudi Arabia’s “Forbidden City”

Short answer: No — AlUla is not cursed. The “cursed” or “forbidden” label comes from the Quranic story of the people of Thamud, whose ruined city of Al-Hijr is today the UNESCO site Hegra (Madain Saleh), and from a well-known hadith recorded when the Prophet Muhammad ﷺ passed the area on the Tabuk expedition. AlUla itself is a living town and Saudi Arabia’s flagship heritage destination, open to visitors under the Royal Commission for AlUla (RCU).

If you have read that AlUla is “cursed”, “forbidden”, or “the city God destroyed”, you are not imagining it — the phrase is everywhere online, from Reddit threads to international newspapers. This guide explains exactly where the idea comes from, what Islamic tradition actually records, and what it means for you as a visitor.

What does “cursed” actually refer to?

It refers to Al-Hijr — the ancient Nabataean city within AlUla, now known as Hegra and also called Madain Saleh (“the cities of Salih”). It is the same site that became Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, with more than 100 monumental tombs carved into sandstone by the Nabataeans (the civilisation that built Petra in Jordan).

Two things sit side by side here:

• A modern tourism town — AlUla — with hotels, restaurants, an oasis of 2.3 million date palms, and an international airport.
• An ancient ruined city — Al-Hijr/Hegra — tied in the Quran and Islamic tradition to a people who were destroyed.

When people say “AlUla is cursed”, they almost always mean the second, not the town you actually stay in.

The Quranic story: the people of Thamud and Prophet Salih

In the Quran, the people of Thamud were a powerful nation who carved homes and tombs into the rock. God sent them the Prophet Salih, who called them to worship God alone and warned them against their arrogance and injustice. They demanded a sign, and were given the she-camel as a miracle. When they hamstrung and killed it, they were given three days, and then destroyed — their carved dwellings left standing but empty.

The Quran refers to these ruins as Al-Hijr (Surah Al-Hijr, 15:80–84) and returns to the story of Thamud in several other chapters. The tombs and rock-cut monuments at Hegra are those “houses” — which is why the place carries such weight in Islamic memory.

The hadith of Al-Hijr: what was actually said

Islamic tradition records that during the expedition to Tabuk, the Prophet Muhammad ﷺ and his companions passed through Al-Hijr. In the narration preserved in Sahih al-Bukhari, he instructed his companions not to enter the dwellings of those who had been punished, except in a state of weeping and humility, and not to drink from the area’s wells. The companions covered their vessels and hurried through.

That narration — not any statement about the modern town of AlUla — is the origin of the “forbidden” reputation. It is a story about reverence for a destroyed people, and a lesson about heedlessness. It is not a curse placed on a place that visitors must never see.

So is AlUla “forbidden” for Muslims?

Here is where honesty matters: scholars and practising Muslims do not all read this the same way.

• Some hold the tradition of Al-Hijr as a reason for caution and reverence when visiting the tombs — going with humility, not treating the site as a party backdrop.
• Others point out that the instruction was specific to that moment on the Tabuk journey, and that the heritage area is now formally managed and opened to visitors by the Royal Commission for AlUla, with licensed Rawi guides.
• Millions of people — Saudi and international, Muslim and non-Muslim — now visit AlUla every year under official management.

This article is not a religious ruling. If the question matters to your faith, ask a scholar you trust. What is clear is that the site is not closed, not banned, and not off-limits — and the modern town of AlUla is an ordinary, welcoming place.

What is actually at AlUla today

Once you separate the ancient site from the town, the picture is simple:

For the full breakdown of what is free and what needs booking, see our AlUla travel guide.

How to visit AlUla respectfully

If you visit as a Muslim — or simply as a thoughtful traveller — these are the widely shared norms:

• Go with reverence at Hegra. Keep the tone calm; avoid loud music, dancing, or irreverent photos among the tombs.
• Do not treat the tombs as a spectacle. The site is a monument to a people who were destroyed, not a theme park.
• Follow the Rawi guide and Heritage Rangers. They protect the site and set the tone; their instructions are the practical ground rules.
• Bring the right kit — closed-toe shoes, water, sun protection. Sites are exposed and some areas close at short notice for conservation.
• Respect closure notices. Parts of the heritage area can be restricted for weather or conservation work.

Getting to AlUla: the practical part

Most visitors reach AlUla either by air (AlUla International Airport, ULH — with flights from Riyadh, Jeddah, Dammam, Dubai and Doha) or by road. From Madinah, the drive is ~335–340 km and takes 3.5–4 hours on the AlUla–Madinah highway.

There is no Uber in AlUla, and airport taxis are limited and first-come-first-served — so most travellers pre-book a private car. If you are coming from Madinah, our Madinah to AlUla private taxi covers the full-day round trip, including waiting at the sites while you explore. Once in town, local transport options are covered on our AlUla taxi page.

FAQs: AlUla, cursed and forbidden

Is AlUla cursed?

No. The “cursed” label refers to the ancient city of Al-Hijr (Hegra) and the Quranic story of the people of Thamud — not to the modern town of AlUla, which is open and welcoming to visitors.

Is AlUla forbidden in Islam?

The site is not closed or banned. Islamic tradition records a hadith in which the Prophet ﷺ advised reverence — not entering the ruined dwellings except in humility — when passing Al-Hijr on the Tabuk expedition. Scholars differ on how that applies to visiting today; the heritage area is officially managed and open under the Royal Commission for AlUla.

Why is AlUla called the “cursed city”?

Because Hegra (Madain Saleh) is the ruined city of the people of Thamud, who the Quran says were destroyed after rejecting the Prophet Salih and killing the she-camel. Newspapers and social media shortened that to “the cursed city”.

What happened in AlUla in Islam?

The Quran (Surah Al-Hijr and others) recounts that the people of Thamud carved homes into the rock and were destroyed for their wrongdoing. The Prophet Salih was sent to them. The ruins of their city are at Hegra.

Can Muslims visit AlUla?

Yes — many do, including Saudis. The heritage area is open under official management with licensed Rawi guides. Many visitors go with reverence, following the guidance of the Rawi and Heritage Rangers.

Is Madain Saleh the same as AlUla?

No. Madain Saleh — today marketed as Hegra — is the ancient UNESCO site within the wider AlUla area. AlUla is the region and town.

Do I need a guide to see Hegra?

Yes. Hegra is pre-booked guided entry only, at SAR 95 per person for the official Hegra Day Tour, with no walk-up ticket gate. See our Hegra guide and tickets.

Is there anything to be afraid of when visiting?

Practically, no. The main cautions are heat, sun exposure and rugged ground. Spiritually, many travellers choose to visit with humility — which is exactly what the tradition asks.

Continue planning

• Full destination guide: AlUla Travel Guide — what to do, what’s free, best time to visit
• The UNESCO site: Hegra (Madain Saleh) guide & tickets
• Maraya: How to visit Maraya
• Getting around: AlUla taxi & local transport
• From Madinah: Madinah to AlUla private taxi (coming soon)

Sources: Royal Commission for AlUla (rcu.gov.sa), Experience AlUla (experiencealula.com), UNESCO World Heritage List (Hegra), Quran 15:80–84 and related Thamud passages, Sahih al-Bukhari (Tabuk / Al-Hijr narration). Religious questions should be directed to a qualified scholar.